Original GET Faster 101 by Conelite

Original GET Faster 101 by Conelite
0

Original GET Faster Post:

So I have been debating whether or not to make this thread but here we go. Hope this helps. Im going to take you thru the BASICS on how to GET more speed from your GET direct from me. This is simply a basic run thru as to what needs to be done in order to GET your bike going faster than stock and teach you how one thing effects another. Sticky Quality? I hope.
There are 2 Speed limiting factors.
They are:

  1. CVT limited speed 2. Power limited speed
  2. CVT limited speed
    CVT limited speed is what limits your bike from going any faster regardless of power being produced. These are determined by:
    A. Variator/Belt set up
    B. Gearing
    C. Tire/Wheel size
    SIDE NOTE: If you dont know how a CVT trans works, Take off your cover, place bike on center stand and rev it up and observe how it functions. How the Pulleys move to help you better understand the entire operation of a continuously variable transmission works. (Credit OF :highfive: )
    http://s.pikabu.ru/post_img/2013/05/14/6/1368518837_174061764.GIF
    All these factors will determine how fast your engine will be able to turn the wheel at a given RPM. Assuming you are NOT running a CDI and have a stock limiter, your top speed will depend on what Variator/belt/Wheel/Tire size you have. The Idea of “CVT” tuning is to OPTIMIZE the power that the engine is producing. The objective of CVT Tuning is to keep the GET in the “Power BAND” as long as possible while accelerating and as the CVT begins to shift. Ideal RPMs for a GET is anything above 8200rpms (I personally shoot for 8200-8900). Going lighter or heavier on weights depends on your CVT components NOT rider weight. Old myth that I debunked. If you dont Agree that’s alright.
    Recap: Optimized power output with your choice of Variator/Belt/Gears (Gears should only be considered after Step 2 and you run out of RPMs ie.10,500+). And If you dont have a Tach, GET ONE. Dont tune blind. I consider myself a seasoned tuner and can do it without a tach but its faster and easier to know exactly what the engine is doing. And for the LOVE OF ALL THAT IS MIGHTY do NOT change a fucken thing unless you know WHY your changing it. I get 10+ messages a Day asking what they changed but never WHy. Try and understand how these components work, what changes when you make changes. Why lighter weights cause higher rpms and how heavy weights lower rpms. Know why your changing them. Show a little enthusiasm for this hobby. Show interest in learning the tricks. Once you master it you will laugh at how simple it is.
  3. Power limited speed
    Once you have your CVT tuned right, you are no longer bouncing the limiter and have a couple hundred RPM’s left but just dont have the “power” to push the new found gearing that occurs when you swap variators, Its time to Open up the engine and let that baby breath. I preach time and time again that if your going to get exhaust its a must to do intake or vis versa. Its just plain dumb to not do both. Rejetting is not that hard. Its easy as hell and can be done in minutes. Hard part is determining what JET’s to use.
    First things first. Find a test road. Any road that’s semi controlled and you can do back to back runs with little traffic interruption and you can smash for a good 2-3 miles. Once you find that road, you have buy jetS<not one but a couple. Must have will be a 38-78-80-82(if you can find it) and 85.
    ALL GETS ARE THE SAME, ALL GETS ARE THE SAME. This myth that every GET is different is another old myth that people need to get out of their heads. Whats different is the endless possibilities for styles of intake, length, shape, exhaust shape and length and so on. 1" longer/shorter intake runner will cause different jet requirements. Why its called rejetting not set it and forget it.
    Step 1: Install exhaust and desired intake (Im not going into what intake you should run) Step 2: Remove carb and install the 38Slow jet
    Step 3: Leave stock main jet which is a 75MJ.
    Installed 38/75 - Go down on your test road and record top speed Installed 38/78 - Go down on your test road and record top speed Installed 38/80 - Go down on your test road and record top speed Installed 38/82 - Go down on your test road and record top speed Installed 38/85 - Go down on your test road and record top speed
    Keep a mental note as to which one felt stronger, which one hesitated, which one bogged and which one just simply didn’t work at all. Write it down. Some people work better with writing things down. Whatever you have to do to help you remember. Pay attention to how the RPMs climb. If they climb faster, or slower, or if you hit the limiter faster. There is a chance that if you were hoovering right by the

limiter thru the acceleration phase that you will hit it since the engine is making more power so this might cause you to have to retune your CVT (If its just minimal limiter bumps I shave 1-2mm off the driveface nipple to compensate- your on your own to figure that one out).
Once this is all said and done and you are bouncing the limiter on flats as a relatively high speed 45+ GPS confirmed, not Stock speedo, Then and only then you can add a CDI and unleash the beast.
Alright, So you tuned your CVT, Your Air/fuel ratio is on point and you are maxing out your set up up in the 55+ MPH range and your tapping on 10,500rpm’s door. GETs in my personal opinion should not rev higher unless you have lightened valve train (which nobody has) and stiffer springs (which nobody sells). Keep in mind this is for FLATs speeds not Hill bombing. Stupid if you tune your set up for hill bombing only, you will sacrifice rideability on flats.
Upgearing options:

  1. Met final Gear ONLY 2. Full Met Gears
  2. Kitaco gears
    I have experience with all 3 set ups. Met final gear ONLY is the Lowest High gear you can do. Gives you a decent upgreaing but its not insane tall that you will be stuck. Full met gears is even taller and about the same as the Kitaco High gear. From my experience the Kitaco high gear is good but whines like CRAZY and for the price and availability, I would go for met gears every time (Which is what I run).
    DISCLAIMER: YOU will have to retune your CVT with lighter weights. Its a must. Its like adding an overdrive in every gear in a stick shift car.
    Here is a simple explanation as to how you install Final gear only, full met gears and Kitaco.
    Met final gear ONLY:
    The only gear you change is #6(Met final gear) There will be some play but dont Obsess over it. I ran 5k miles like this zero issues
    Full met gear:
    You will change out #6, #5, #4 and remove #9washer. The #9 washer is called a thrust washer and is built into the Met #4 gear so no need for the one thats in the ruckus case. #3 gear (Driveshaft) is never changed from met over to the ruckus swing arm. Different length.
    Kitaco High gear:
    Kitaco comes with the #3 (Driveshaft) and the #5(coin gear) in their kit. The rest of the gears from the ruckus are used. Its a different set up from using the met gears.
    My last and final Post will be on Stock Clutch modifications and Maintenance (How I maintain all the #Sushiboyz Boys) . Stock Clutch - Should I mod it, Change Contra springs and clutch engagement springs.

Take this into consideration, before thinking about changing your contra spring, This is to help mainly for quicker acceleration. Highly recommended for people running Tall gears or if your a really really big guy.
The stock clutch is more than enough for all your Daily BEATINGs that you can throw at it. First of all, NOBODY besides Polini makes a proper fitting Contra Spring. I say proper, because you can not run the Cup with any other spring besides Polini. The cup in my research helps the contra rotate freely and allowing for smoother shifting up and down. If you don’t know what cup Im talking about, this is above your performance and mechanical level.
I have used other generic springs but the problem is the inner diameter of most springs is too small, thus not allowing it to run the cup, and causing the spring not to sit properly in the groove from the back plate of the clutch assembly, which is another area that binds and causes poor shifting. What I did to help proper fitment is to enlarge the inner diameter of the contra spring. Its a lot of work but it works. Only issue you will encounter is loss in spring tension since your removing so much material. I have a generic How-To to measure spring tension that anyone can do at home. You can use this method to compare your new springs to stock strings and so on. Just one method I use to compare and tune my bikes. And remember: there is a contra spring break in period. Run about 0.5g-1g heavier weights for the first 50 miles then start re-tuning your variator.

Contra/torque spring resistance

Once you have our contra spring installed correctly and your weights are on point, start thinking about clutch engagement springs. The stock clutch has 2. I have run slues, stocks and pinks. All my friends run blues, I personally always run pinks. You can find these on your own. Personally I don’t think they do much. Just slips the clutch more on take off. I only use them to help with PC20 Throttle hesitation.
HappyPancake “Swap out the std clutch w/ an elite 50 3-shoe. Grabs and holds much better.” Maintenance
Well this is all subjective depending on who you talk. Here is how I maintain my bikes.
Engine:
Oil change every 500 miles
Use Measuring cup and do EXACTLY 600ml (560-580ml if your feeling risky)
Weight- Winter 5w-20 and Summer 5w-30 (I run 0-40w on my BB now to reduce oil consumption) Spark plug every 3-4K miles (e3 only for me, Thanks Shady)
Check valve lash every 3-4k (More often now with BB)
Cooling system straight water wetter and water
(I only run synthetic. Personally I have always run Mobile 1, My boys all run Motul)
CVT:
Check Weights every other time I change oil Inspect Clutch assembly for unusual Wear and tear Belt every 2-3k miles
Transmission/Case:
Change oil every 3-4K miles
Inspect for any strange noises or excess whine
Of course, Make sure your tire pressure is pumped up. I always have, and always will run 40PSI. Less rolling resistance=MOAR SPEED.

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Great write up! :metal:t3:

@Conelite yo man. come claim your write up!

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These things are why TR is great.

Credit for this goes to Christopher Hladky, it is a cut and paste of his Facebook post.


GET a tach.

Look up CVT scooter tuning… just as a baseline.

Scooter swap shop has a good video on clutch cleaning that accidentally explains how a clutch works.

The choke is actually a “bistarter enrichment valve” and the best info is on a spree wiki.

Google “ruckus wiring diagram” on an Integra website you’ll find the diagram and the shop manual.

If you change the intake you have to rejet. 38, 75,78,80,82,85 are all the jets you’ll ever need.

6gram CVT weights are probably too heavy. 5.5, 5, 4.5, and maybe 4 are what you want to tune with. Dr. Pulley sliders are best. Don’t buy “tuning roller”. The NCY variator is trash. The Polini variator is best for most people.

The Polini belt wears out quick… don’t waste your money.

STAY WITH OEM Carb, belt, clutch. You’ll GET zero gains and lots of frustration trying something else.

Led blinkers need a special relay.

Prestone premix 50/50 is silicate free and safe for the aluminum engine.

Any oil is basically fine. Don’t buy store brand just in general tho.

You need a variator tool to remove the variator and clutch. If you don’t know what you’re doing… you’ll crush the splines on the crankshaft when you put the driveface back on, that basically means you need a new engine.

FUEL SPARK COMPRESSION is the three things you need to make an engine run…

Pull the fuel line off the carb… turn on the bike… fuel should “spurt” not dribble from the hose.

Pull the spark plug and ground the edge to the engine… try to start it… look visually for spark.

If those are good… then it’s probably compression… your valve is held open slightly…

Google “timbers valve howto” and follow his instructions.

All the screws on the bike are JIS (Japanese industry standard) a number 2 Phillips is very close… but you WILL strip every one of you aren’t super careful.

There’s no good exhaust under $250. For the love of God don’t GET an eBay exhaust… if you wanna go fast… really research. MNNTHBX SP is the cheapest tunable exhaust… Yoshi TRC is the best best.

There’s no “wheels” for a ruckus… unless you wanna do a disc brake conversion up front, or buy an expensive drum hub adapter.

Mojo customs is the great stretch kit… I’d personally recommend 12x7. It’ll be the easiest for reasons.

DO NOT BUY A 9.5" stretch kit.

The curly exhaust is pretty… but will definitely stop you from tuning up the bike.

Air pressure on tires is atleast 30psi.

The oil should be halfway up the dipstick when you push it in (not screwed in).

The battery won’t charge from using the e-start unless you ride 25 minutes above 25mph.
-GET a multimeter… don’t let your battery go below 12.4 volts. A battery that reads 12 volts is probably dead forever.
-GET a battery tender and quick connect. That little tender that plugs in the wall is great.

Seriously… the stock carb and clutch are fine.

“Tuning” is trying things one at a time, and not touching ANYTHING else…

Try one jet, test, try the Next jet, text… DON’T CHANGE ANYTHING ELSE

Same with CVT weights… try one set… test… repeat.

If you change 7 things on your bike at once… you’ll be sad. You’ll ask for help, and people will laugh at you.

Laugh with people laughing at you.

GET A TACH.

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I forgot that I was quoted in 101.