Rat Rucks 2009 Rebuild




Mods list:
Mojo Customs 8 Inch Fatty Stretch
DWT 10x8 Rear Wheel (Kymco Hub)
Lowered Seat Frame (Garage Special)
Micheline Bopper Rear (130x90x10)
Raked and Lowered Stock Forks
BMX Bar Stem
BMX Handle Bars
Radiants Tail Light
Trailer Lights LED Turn SIgnals
LED Flasher Relay
Rigid Rear End
Terrible Soviet Prosthetic Limb Paint

Polini Vatiator
Dr Pulley Sliders (4.85 g Average)
Gates Belt
Shaved Stock Drive Face
Yellow Battlescooter Contra Shaved to Fit Plastic Cup
Blue Clutch Springs
Met Gears

2v GET5, Ported Head Valve Guides Shaved, Head Shaved .015
Sauce Cup Velocity Stack
Sink Drain Intake Runner
Ported Stock Carb
Lightened Flywheel
Electrical Conduit Exhaust
PCV Delete

Future updates:
Ordered Mojo Front Low Down Disc Brake Conversion
New Front Wheel On The Way
Want to try an electric fan on the radiator to GET the fan off of the flywheel, possibly mount the radiator on the frame.
BBB when the pistons are back in stock.
Make a new exhaust

This is the first vehicle I ever had, purchased in 2009 and rode stock for about 2 years. I built it with whatever extra money I had and accumulated most of the parts over a 5 year span. I fabricated what I could and purchased what I could not. It has been parked for about 2 years, so I decided to drag it out and fix the mistakes made many years ago. At one point it ran e85 which had the usual HORRIBLE fuel consumption. To compensate I cut a stock tank in half and raised it with a welded in spacer, effective but hideous. Too many empty tanks on the side of the road made me can that idea. Id like to revisit that on a 58cc motor. Looking forward to reading other peoples builds and seeing the site be populated with more content.


I did sort of the same thing this spring, replaced the valves, and did a general facelift. I’ve done some of the same mods, ported, polished, and shaved the head. Lots of CVT mods. Lots of tuning. I was glad to find this site, but disappointed to see that there is almost no activity on here. I had over 100 pages of build thread on the original TR, really hated it when it disappeared.

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oldfart55, I remember reading your build thread! It was an inspiration to me to see you build something cool that did not have 10k worth of bolt on’s.

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More parts

Adelin Low Down Forks
Adelin 4 piston caliper
Adelin levers
Adelin 10" Front wheel
TwPo 220mm rotor
NCY Rotor Bolts
Adelin Brake Levers
New Steel Front Axle
CNC Moto 90 Degree Aluminum Valve Stem

The caliper/rotor/wheel combo works but is very tight! I measured 4mm of clearance between the caliper and wheel.
Need to mount the tire and assemble the front end. Its 10 degrees outside so I"m contemplating parking the ruck in my living room…

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The front end is together but a PITA to space properly. With the wheel centered the rotor rubs the fork. Looks like I might have to throw the wheel in the rotary tale and mill a bit off the rotor mount. Other than that it looks great. I will post pictures once I GET the ruck inside.

Have wanted a big bore GET since I read about them years ago, found a BOLO piston never used with a cylinder, picked it up. To my surprise I found that the block was bored out already even though I was told it was not, measured the bore and piston to check clearance, .0018 right on the money. Need to order a fresh crank, bearings, seals.


sweeet! the big bore is where its at! im using a stock carb and it rips! Just make sure you keep checking your oil. They burn oil like a mofo! my own and a few homies who have them burn, not crazy but enough you have to check a lot more than before.

GET big bore is awesome. Looking forward to seeing updated.

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Its too cold in the garage.

Slowly puling parts together, waiting on a fresh crank for the BBB. I have the paint down to three colors, nardo grey, golden yellow, or gold with metal flake. Also been eyeing up the tri core stainless steel muffler from steady.


rear fatty GETs are nice.

Finally got it back together, has been a busy summer. Took it for a spin with new headlights, led FTW. Still need to tidy up the wiring and put the battery box on. Still assembling the BBB, have my ripper GET in right now, pulls good. 2 strokes are fun but theirs something special about the GET.
Im a big fan of 10 inch front and rear wheels, it brings me back to reading TR back in 09 when i first bought this thing.


I Love your sht. My favorite Ruck so far. Wonder how the front felt with the forks like that.

I like the first build with the wooden ignition cover. And the Russian paint

Thanks! Have some trips planned on this thing when warmer weather comes, really like just cruising the back roads and looking around on this thing. Plans for the ruckus this year include a kickstand (mojo customs) and a better looking exhaust, also rear shock. Have not had one since 2012. I also like the looks of the mojo handlebars, we will see. But for sure kickstand, exhaust, and rear suspension.

Oh, and riding more. Its way easier to drive a car to the store, but way more enjoyable to take the ruckus.

It was 80 last week so I took advantage of the warm weather.

Assembled the battery box and finalized headlights. Had to trim the boot to fit the LED heat sinks.

Put my kickstand on (mojo), really happy with the quality.

Made a license plate bracket. Also installed a rear shock (from mojo)

Actually rode around a bit. Ended up stranded, fuel pump failed. Its the original and was destine to happen at some point.


Dug into the fuel pump that failed, interesting little unit. I lost the final check valve (rubber flapper). Rubber was dried, brittle.

Its going to be a fun filled riding season.

Machined my Kymco hub to be concentric with the wheel. Essentially i made an arbor out of a ruckus final drive gear, pressed the gear off of the shaft. Then I mounted and indicated it in using the 4 jaw independent chuck. I turned the raised section down to the same diameter as the hole in the center of the wheel. Once the diameter was correct, I took a light face cut to square up the assembly. I also shaved off the bump in the center because i dont like how it looks. You will see this called “hub centric”. All it is is making the wheel and hub concentric with each other.

Currently running 55mph at 10k RPM, not to bad for stock gears and a 130x90x10 stretched onto a 8" wheel. Have an old shaved drive face installed currently, the bottom end on it sucks, have a new one on order to mess around with.

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Here is a small tool i made to shave drive faces. Its made from 300 series aluminum, used an m6 bolt to hold the drive face in place while it is getting worked.

Shaved a new one, and threw in a MET final gear. Shaved weights to get some RPM back while accelerating, 4.5 average weight.

Wideband?? Yep, thats next.

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I did something very similar, except I attached the drive face to the shaft of a bench grinder. Worked great!