In terms of the ecooter motor. There isn’t much info out there. There are some videos under this user which were helpful.
But no wiring diagrams or anything out there.
It’s much quicker to accelerate than an ICE bike. This ecooter has 2 modes. 1 equivalent to a UK 50cc license (so limited to 28mph). And then 1 equivalent to a 125cx licence - which I think will do about 60mph in the mode. I have a button to switch between the two but will need to disconnect the button and limit it to 28mph to get it registered.
If I build another, (my wife won’t let me, but if I did) I’d build a ruckus, use the flp battery tray. And change the design of the mount to accommodate the battery tray. May even be tempted to use Hung Bi’s mount as it’s a bit different. Then use a bespoke bigger battery. I think I’d also try and wire the controller and bike myself - just to learn how!
I want to fit it as it will make my life easier in the future. So now have to adapt the bracket again. Attempt no who knows is on the printer. 10 hour print…: so will see how it turns out.
I can see why people get pissed off at their designs being stolen when it takes so long to adapt and get them right. I probably shouldn’t perfect them so much though….
My key bracket is taking some time to get right as well…
The positioning of the key is good enough to use, but just trying to perfect it now. I’ve started numbering the last ones so I can check which is the best fit.
But my Dremel broke so I can’t tidy the welds up. Grr.
So nearly there…
Just gotta…
Fit a new kickstand. The one I bought was cheap and broke. New one should be arriving today.
Bleed the brakes - I didn’t do it well enough - they are spongy.
Refit the plastics when the Mansory glue is dry.
Tidy and paint the frame welds.
Then I’m done. This last bit is taking a lot longer than it should.
Ok, didn’t wait for the tiger seal to fully dry. Got all the plastics back on. Including the side skirts - man they are a bitch.
So just 3 things to do. The kickstand turned up, but the bolt spacing is different - so need to drill and tap a different hole, but the stand looks better quality.
Brakes also re-bled and now work. The paddock stand is great for this sort of thing.
So it’s just the kickstand to re fit and then I’m completely done. Can’t quite work out how to do it though, now that the bike is off the bench I can’t get enough room under it to get a drill under (and straight). Hmm. Need a proper motorbike lift…
Have insured the bike and booked an MiT for Friday.
Worried the front shocks are too far gone to pass a mot. So went to order some backup ones in case… the price of the low downs have gone crazy. I used to pay £60. Now they are about £200.
So I’ve ordered some dio shocks. They are 10mm longer (310mm instead of 300mm) and the caliper bolts are closer together (84mm instead of 92mm) but you can get them for <£40. Plus £10 for the caliper bracket.
I rode it to the Most centre and lots a fair chunk of battery, so I think it’s probably max 20miles range. So might have to look at fitting in the bigger battery at some point.
I much prefer riding with rear sets. Just waiting on longer bolts that I’ve ordered as they need to include my mount as well. This will be my last mod though!!
had to put the original headlight back in rather than an aftermarket one.
it wasnt the steering head bearings - the bolts were loose where the shocks connect to the triple tree. bit of a stupid mistake by me not doing those up! shows the point of an MoT though - i would have been riding round and the bolts would have fallen out if they hadn’t of flagged it.
Paper work for the DVLA is now all complete and will post off tomorrow.
I recon 15% battery is about 3 to 5 miles depending on how you ride.
With the bike set to uk equivalent of a 50cc, it’s limited to 28mph, so is it fast - no. Does it accelerate well - yes!
With the restriction turned off - that sets it to a uk equivalent of a 125cc restrictions. Is it fast - no. You could probably hit 50 on a flat at a push. But does it accelerate - definitely!
Riding an electric is a little different, you can’t coast. You have to hold the throttle at the speed you want to coast at - otherwise it’s braking and then you have to kick the speed back in. A bit like when you go slow enough your variator disengages.
Is it ok in the city - yes. Would I take it out of the city - no, it would need a bigger motor I think.
Is it fun - yes - the same way as any small bore bike is.
Is it a massive improvement on an ICE engine - no, it’s just different.
These make riding so much more comfortable. Couldn’t do with out them.
They were an absolute PITA to fit with the Met undercowl plastics. Had to cut a hole in the under cowl to get access to the ruck rear frame to do the lower mounting bolt up. For now I’ve folded the plastic flap I made back up. Should probably neaten it at up some point.
The set backs seem to work with my engine mount ok.
So that’s it. Build over. Time to think about what the next project will be…
My electric conversion is now fully registered with DVLA. Well happy with that! Had to compile a bunch of paperwork and supporting evidence, but wasn’t as bad as I thought it would be. If anyone does an electric conversion and wants some help with the process, give me a shout.
