So typically, the oem steel mount clashes with the projector lens mounting point and also the metal housing. It’s because it’s higher than central like the original location.
Not sure what to do now.
I can run the light upside down and it works, but doesn’t look as good in the housing.
I looked at offsetting the projector part down with a bracket, but that only partially solves the problem and I’m worried about it melting as it’s close to the LED.
I could start hacking the original oem bracket about, but wanted to try and keep that the same.
I could buy a different light with a central main light.
I could take the parts of the light and make my own full housing - but worried the 3d print wouldn’t hold up to the heat.
but I cant get it to centre and for the caliper not to hit the wheel. So I have used a 12x2.75 monkey bike wheel that I had lying around, and this works.
It does mean that I need a 100/60-12 tyre now though, so have ordered that.
I have used the levers from the original electric bike as they are actually fairly compact. I just ditched the combined breaking unit and used separate lines. a 1000mm long brake line at the front and a 2100mm long break line at the back.
Apparently you can get a 10" wheel to fit on the front if you use a brembo p32 caliper. So one day I might change it, but not at the moment.
Because it’s the Met front forks, I used the wider out of the two monkey hubs you can buy. That means there is no room for a rotor adaptor. So you have to buy the smaller rotor with the smaller 57mm bolt spacing.
I have got limited switches for the bars - reverse on the right, and standard indicators and horn on the left. The rest (sport mode, high beams, on/off) are going to be drilled and fit in to the neck of the front shield.
I also went back to my headlight bracket design whilst I was waiting. Below is the penultimate design. I have made one more iteration to print and then I will seal it all in to place:
All, looks good, except for 2 things. One of my top spacers is too thoick. But that’s fine as it only needs to be 1mm thick instead of 4mm thick, so can just use an actual penny washer - it isnt seent anyway.
The second thing is more annoying. My hub holes are too tight for the press fitting studs. Must be because the plastic was more pliable when I test fitted.
Was worried that the shock was too short. But actually looks about right. It’s a generic 250mm scooter shock. I tried using the usual ruckus ones, but the fork was too narrow to fit.
